Planned Route
Total Days: 5
Total Kilometres: 74 kilometres
Total Portages: 14
Total Portage Length: 3.220 kilometres
Longest Portage: 1 kilometre (Donald Lake to Kukagami Lake)
Route: Kukagami Lake – Outlet Bay – Carafel Creek – Carafel Lake – Maskinonge Lake – Rice Lake – Lower Matagamasi Lake – Edna Lake – Karl Lake – McCarthy Bay – Gold Lake -Colin Scott Lake – Donald Lake – Kukagami Lake – Kondike Bay
Actual Route
Total Days: 2.5
Total Kilometres: Approx. 40 kilometres
Total Portages: 12
Total Portage Length: 2.625 kilometres
Longest Portage: 1 kilometre (Donald Lake to Kukagami Lake)
Average Daytime High: 20.3 Celsius
Average Nighttime Low: 17 Celsius
Route: Kukagami Lake – Outlet Bay – Carafel Creek – Carafel Lake – Maskinonge Lake – Donald Creek – Potvin Lake – Donald Creek – Donald Lake – Kukagami Lake
Maps Used: Map from “Top 50 Canoe Routes of Ontario” by Kevin Callan
For the 2013 paddling season we decided to have a spring and fall trip since summer can get a little too hot and uncomfortable. As Killarney Provincial Park continues to get more and more popular, we felt a little over crowded there last year. For our spring trip we found a route in Kevin Callan’s book “Top 50 Canoe Routes of Ontario”. The route is in the Temagami region, one of the most popular paddling areas in the whole province. It was also on crown land so no backcountry fees apply. In the end we learned a very important lesson on this trip.
DAY # 1: Kukagami Lake to Carafel Lake
Weather: Sunny with a few clouds. High: 18 Celsius Low: N/A
After driving up to Muskoka from southwestern Ontario the night before, we were soon on our way to Sudbury on Highway #17. On our drive up we saw where there was a recent train derailment near the town of Wanup. We then turned north on the ever winding Kukagami Lake Road and the Sportsman’s Lodge where we parked our car and launched for a fee. As soon as we stepped out of the car the “Canadian Airforce” was upon us. (Mosquitoes and Blackflies). The mosquitoes in particular were thirsty for blood and surrounded us. The operators at the lodge said the bugs were particularly bad this year which didn’t surprise us as we had a cool and wet spring.
Once we launched from Klondike Bay and paddled into the breeze on Kukagami Lake the swarm subsided and we got to take in the scenery with our first pair of loons already spotted on Kukagami Lake. When we arrived at our first portage of 150 metres the bloodsuckers and biters were back and were so bad that we had to wear our bug nets over our heads. This was not fun while portaging because both our vision and balance were impaired.
After a few more portages we arrived on Carafel Lake and chose an island site that had a breeze so the bugs were not that bad. The site was a little scruffy but there was a nice flat spot for a tent. After supper, which was our own homemade dehyde of Sheppard’s Pie, we relaxed and inspected our bodies for insect bites. In the distance the sky grew a little dark and we heard distant rumbles of thunder. Luckily for us it veered away and we had a calm night for our first sleep in Temagami.
Wildlife Sightings: White-throated Sparrow, Black-capped Chickadee, Ovenbird, Nashville Warbler, White-tailed Deer, Tiger Swallowtail, Black-throated Green Warbler, Blackburnian Warbler, Red-eyed Vireo, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Pine Warbler, Hermit Thrush, Common Loon, Ruffed Grouse, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Pileated Woodpecker, Northern Flicker, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Common Merganser, Mallard, Snapping Turtle, Red Squirrel, Mosquitoes, Blackflies, People
Remember to: Don’t forget a watch. We have no idea what time it is out here.
DAY # 2: Carafel Lake to Maskinonge Lake
Weather: Sunny to partly cloudy. Breezy winds in the evening. High: 21 C Low: 19 C
The morning brought sunshine along with mosquitoes clinging to the inside of the fly of our tent. There seemed to be less insects as the sun came out, however as soon as you tried to squat in the woods it wasn’t long before they were all over you!
The morning was spent at and around our campsite. We hopped into the canoe and trolled for fish and got snagged. We also watched dragonfly larvae making their way to shore from the shallows and eventually emerge as adult dragonflies. The final act being the uncurling of their delicate wings. The water was quite cool which Marianne found out after she jumped in and then quickly clambered out!
After a chili and egg noodle lunch it was time to head out to our next site which would only be a short paddle to Maskinonge Lake. We had a lift over that the canoe went over no problem, plus a lift over where an old road used to be. We also waded through another section to avoid some swifts, with the last swift being run no problem. During our paddle we spotted a Moose along the shoreline. We paddled slowly towards it until it decided to turn its head and walk back into the bush.
Maskinonge Lake had many islands, however quite a few of them had some marshy areas behind them which we wanted to strictly avoid due to the bugs. In the end it didn’t matter because as soon as we arrived on our island site we were attacked by mosquitoes and blackflies. We quickly put up the tent and spent the rest of our time killing the mosquitoes that made it inside with us. Trying to jump into the lake or squat in the bush was just horrendous as the insects would be all over you for your blood. For supper we just stayed in our tent eating beef jerky, as the blackflies and mosquitoes took turns clinging to the side of our tent hoping that one of us would come out.
Wildlife Sightings: Moose, Great Blue Heron, Common Loon, Ovenbird, Canada Goose, Tiger Swallowtail, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Barred Owl, Dragonfly sp., People, Mosquitoes, Blackflies
Remember to: None today……..though a big one is coming up shortly.
DAY # 3: Maskinonge Lake to Kukagami Lake
Weather: Cloudy with light showers in the afternoon. High: 22 C Low: 16 C
After a miserable evening of just hiding in the tent, we were starting to contemplate what we should do. On the plus side we were on vacation and out in the woods which is what we love! On the other hand the bugs were to the point that we couldn’t enjoy having a campfire, or go the bathroom without getting bit around the….well you know.
In the end we decided to cut across Donald Creek to Donald Lake instead of paddling up to Edna Lake. Every portage west to Donald Lake presented a challenge (there were six of them), and to be honest, we vaguely remember any of them because the mosquitoes were relentless! Even with the bug jacket, bug net, and skin smothered in Deet the bugs did NOT care! All we remember of these portages were that they were a combination of bushwhacking, balancing on rocks and logs, and trying to balance along the side of a cliff, while dragging the canoe above a log jam 20 feet below you. Doing all this with a bug net on your head left us discombobulated. It was somewhere along here that we left our fishing rod back at one of these portages. We could care less!
Once we arrived and paddled out onto Donald Lake you would think being out in the middle of the lake would give you somewhat of a reprieve from the bugs, but the mosquitoes followed us into the canoe and bit our butts through the holes of the canoe seat!
After what felt like the longest 1,000 metre portage of our lives, we were back on Kukagami Lake and made the paddle back to the launch as it began to lightly rain. Returning to the launch, we grumbled as we threw our bags in the car and loaded the canoe on top. Down the ever winding road we drove until we reached the city of Sudbury and a Motel….that had no bugs! After a shower we got to take a real good look at the damage from the bug bites. YIKES! For the rest of our vacation we explored the city of Sudbury and chilled back at the cottage. Luckily we have another trip in the fall to make up for this one, though we really want to return to Temagami again. The region is really scenic and we never even explored half our route! For sure a fall trip is in order!
Wildlife Sightings: Common Loon, Common Raven, Swainson’s Thrush, Herring Gull, People, Mosquitoes, Blackflies
Remember to: NO MORE JUNE CAMPING IN NORTHERN ONTARIO!!
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