Total Days: 6
Total Kilometres: Approx. 48 kilometres
Total Portages: 6
Total Length of Portages: 3.005 kilometres
Longest Portage: 980 metres (David Lake to Clearsilver Lake)
Average Daytime High: 25.7 Celsius
Average Nighttime Low: N/A (but it was warm)
Route: Carlyle Lake – Johnnie Lake – Bell Lake – Three Mile Lake – Balsam Lake – David Lake – Clearsilver Lake – Johnnie Lake – Carlyle Lake
Maps Used: Friends of Killarney Map (version 2007)
We had such a great time in Killarney Provincial Park last year that we decided to return the following year to paddle/portage the eastern side of the park. We would launch from Carlyle Lake, travelling counter clockwise up to Balsam Lake, before turning back to complete the loop . This summer trip was also the inaugural voyage of our new canoe: a Swift Prospector 17 made of carbon fibre.
DAY # 1: Carlyle Lake to Johnnie Lake
Weather: Partly cloudy with clouds in the evening, a light breeze. High: 24 C Low: N/A
After leaving the family cottage in the Muskoka area we arrived at the George Lake campground to pick up our permit. Back tracking on highway 637 we arrived at the Carlyle Lake launch after 2pm to have a quick lunch before we floated our new canoe into the lake. We were on our way again into the backcountry of Killarney Provincial Park!
Carlyle Lake has quite a few cottages on it and we observed a few people out enjoying the beautiful summer day. As we entered Johnnie Lake we started to see more white quartzite of the Killarney Ridge, while the shoreline also had some cottages. Sticking our hands into the water we were happy that the lake was not that cold and hoped that other lakes in the interior would be similar. As evening approached and we were nearing the end of the lake we noticed that all the campsites appeared to be occupied! We began to wonder that with so many people out today that perhaps squatters were on a site without reserving it through Ontario Parks. Turning around we tried to find an island to camp on and located one in the middle of Johnnie Lake with a nice smooth flat rock. Thank you glacier!
After paddling in the heat we decided to strip down and take a swim in the water. It felt great though three times we had to clamber up the rocks and crouch down in the blueberry bushes as motorboats approached. After rinsing the body odor out of our polyester shirts we tied our rope between a couple of trees as a clothesline to dry them.
We decided that tonight we were going to sleep under the stars in our sleeping bags as it was a calm warm night. This seemed like a good idea at the time until after the sun went down and the mosquitoes came out. Eventually we put on our headlamps and assembled the tent, minus the fly. We went to sleep that night serenaded by the mosquitoes.
Wildlife Sightings: American Redstart, Pine Warbler, Ovenbird, Caspian Tern, Black-and-white Warbler, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Black-throated Green Warbler, Swainson’s Thrush, Mosquitoes, Black-capped Chickadee, Common Loon, Ebony Jewelwing, Bullfrog, Common Nighthawk, People
Remember to: Not to camp under the stars in mosquito season.
DAY # 2: Johnnie Lake to Balsam Lake
Weather: Partly sunny. High: 23 C Low: N/A
This morning we awoke with the call of Sandhill Cranes in the distance. We got up very early in fear of a repeat event like yesterday in finding all sites occupied. Unfortunately, in the rush to get out on the water early, we did not check our campsite thoroughly enough and we forgot our rope that we used as a clothesline. We realized this around noon so it was too late to turn around and go back. Luckily we will be coming back through Johnnie Lake on our return so hopefully the rope is hidden enough that no one will find it. After a short portage of 300 metres into Bell Lake, followed by an even shorter 30 metre portage into Balsam Lake, we were greeted by a lot of canoeists!
We paddled full throttle towards an island campsite we had our eyes on with no idea whether the paddlers on this lake were coming or going. We arrived at an island that had two sites on it around noon (site #118). We observed people vacate the neighbouring site shortly after we arrived, and within the hour there were new occupants paddling in. Man this section of the park is busy! Our site was pretty nice, however the thunderbox was missing the bottom front piece of wood.
The rest of the day was for relaxing in the sun. A pair of Ring-billed Gulls hung out near our site. Most likely they have been fed from this campsite or else there would be no other reason for their presence. A lot of songbirds, including warblers were singing.
Wildlife Sightings: Common Loon, White-tailed Deer, Great Blue Heron, Beaver, Magnolia Warbler, American Redstart, Black-throated Green Warbler, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Black-and-white Warbler, Pine Warbler, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Ring-billed Gull, Mink, Swainson’s Thrush, Red-eyed Vireo, Black-capped Chickadee, Dragonhunter, People
Remember to: Check over campsite thoroughly before departing. Purchase a new scrub pad for our water pump. Don’t camp around the long weekend in Killarney.
DAY # 3: Balsam Lake to David Lake
Weather: Sunny with clouds. High: 23 C Low: N/A
Last night we slept a little better because we slept in our tent, though we did wake up in the middle of the night because we were hot. We slept in a little bit this morning and had a breakfast pancake on the frypan. For some reason pancakes always taste better out in the woods 🙂
Eventually we hit the lake and paddled our way towards David Lake. After a 665 metre portage we entered David Lake. Though the water on this lake was pretty clear it was nothing compared to the windex clear blue waters of Nellie Lake. Our site (#103) was a nice little peninsula that included a smooth rock towards the shoreline to lay our clothes out to dry, as well as to chillax. Marianne went for a swim in the lake and swam up to a group of loons which she surprisingly got very close to! Exploring around our site she also discovered a Garter Snake.
While sitting on our flat rock we soon discovered a pair of Snapping Turtles approaching the shoreline. They looked very interested in us when we walked to the waters edge. Perhaps they get handouts from other campers.
After supper we went for a evening paddle to pump some water and we decided to check out an island that had a Herring Gull nest on it. Though the gulls protested our presence, there were no eggs or chicks to be found. We fell asleep that night listening to the “Who Cooks For You” call of a distant Barred Owl.
Wildlife Sightings: Common Loon, Bald Eagle, Pine Warbler, Black-capped Chickadee, American Redstart, Black-throated Green Warbler, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Hairy Woodpecker, Mourning Cloak, Compton Tortoiseshell, Garter Snake, Swainson’s Thrush, Snapping Turtle, Ovenbird, White-throated Sparrow, People
Remember to: Bring the thermometer next trip so we can accurately record temperatures.
DAY # 4: David Lake (Climbing Silver Peak)
Today is a big day as we were going to climb Silver Peak, the highest summit in the park at 2,100 feet! We had a big breakfast, some tea, and packed a lunch.
We paddled west on David Lake to the portage/trail head. This trail is part of the La Cloche Silhouette Trail, a near 80 kilometre loop that traverses through various terrain in the park.
Slowly we began our hike up to the top of the mountain with white quartzite becoming more and more visible as we continued to ascend. We took quite a few water breaks as it was hot and we were drenched in sweat! It is more than worth it once you clamber up that last boulder to get to the top. The summit of Silver Peak is incredible and by far the most scenic view both of us have ever had! Lucky for us it was sunny with no haze and we observed the shadows of a few clouds below us as they slowly rolled over the land. Looking down we viewed a few lakes that we have paddled on previous trips, as well as Georgian Bay to the south, and Sudbury and Espanola to the north. While walking on the summit we found a lot of blueberries and we gorged on them. We also discovered that we were not the only ones that loved the blueberries with blueberry bear scat found as well.
After lunch we hiked back down the trail which we found was a lot easier going down than the climb up. Eventually we retuned to our site and jumped into the lake for a swim. After drying off we hung out with our Snapping Turtle that we discovered had a tumor on its lower jaw.
Wildlife Sightings: Ruffed Grouse, Eastern Chipmunk, Red Squirrel, Black-throated Green Warbler, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Black-and-white Warbler, Common Loon, Veery, Hermit Thrush, Turkey Vulture, American Redstart, Red-eyed Vireo, Black-capped Chickadee, Snapping Turtle, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, White-throated Sparrow, Ovenbird, People.
Remember to: Never hike the La Cloche Silhouette Trail in the heat of the summer again.
DAY # 5: David Lake to Clearsilver Lake
Weather: Sunny. High: 26 C Low: N/A
This morning we decided to sleep in as the lake we booked for tonight had only the one campsite on it and we sincerely HOPED it would not be hijacked by squatters. When we finally got on the lake we realized it was going to be another hot one. Paddling down the southeast corner of David Lake we came to our longest portage of the whole trip, a 980 metre into Clearsilver Lake, a lake we thought we viewed yesterday from the top of Silver Peak. Along the portage, which was also part of the La Cloche Silhouette Trail, we ran into some hikers. Clearsilver Lake is yet another lake that is trying to recuperate from a low pH level as the lake had very little vegetation in it. The campsite itself (#70) was average for Killarney and was quite dusty, though still better than any campsite we have close to home! After a lunch of chili we decided to just relax for the rest of the day which, unlike other trips, was something we discovered we did a lot on this trip. A chipmunk decided to check out the interior of our tent while we were sitting at the fire pit. Tonight we stayed up late at the campfire. Later we sat out near the lake and gazed up at the stars while the toads and frogs serenaded us. “Sha-la-la-la-la-la Kiss The Girl!”
Wildlife Sightings: Hairy Woodpecker, Eastern Chipmunk, Red Squirrel, Eastern Phoebe, Common Raven, Broad-winged Hawk, Black-capped Chickadee, Least Flycatcher, Common Loon, Veery.
Remember to: Put a whistle in Aaron’s PFD. Bring ingredients for bannock to have with our chili next trip.
DAY # 6: Clearsilver Lake to Carlyle Lake
Weather: Sunny and breezy. High: 30 C Low: N/A
After a pancake breakfast we returned to Johnnie Lake via the 830 metre portage and made our way back to the island “campsite”. Even though it was a non designated campsite someone did in fact take our rope that we left hanging a few days prior. We chowed down on a few more blueberries and soon we were on our way again. As we paddled away from the island we noticed that it was once graffitied with the added attempt to cover it up with rock coloured paint. This really pissed us off in that not only did someone steal our rope, but graffiti on a rock in Killarney Provincial Park?! C’mon!!!
Paddling past the cottages on Johnnie Lake we entered Carlyle Lake and site #55 which was in a mouse hole. The campsite itself was up pretty high from the water with Terry Lake just behind our site. A nice breeze was also appreciated because it was still quite warm out. A little stream nearby sets the tune as Swainson’s Thushes and frogs began their evening serenade. A couple with a young kid came into the mouse hole to try some fishing from their boat.
Tomorrow we head back to the launch.
Wildlife Sightings: Double-crested Cormorants, Common Loon, Broad-winged Hawk, Caspian Tern, People, frogs, Swainson’s Thrush
Remember to: Start mixing up our own dehydrated foods with store bought freeze dried meals so we can have more of a variety. Buy a new rope to replace our old rope.
DAY # 7: Carlyle Lake to the launch at Carlyle Lake
Weather: Sunny. Morning temperature of 17 C and calm.
As with every single camping trip we have ever been on, the night before we have to go home is always the most sleepless night of the trip. It must be something that sparks in the back of your mind. You know you don’t want to go home from vacation yet but there is a weird anticipation to get back to your car and real food again. We were clearly not out for enough days on this trip.
Sitting awake in the dark in the tent during the predawn we heard the frogs and toads calling. After they retired it was the Swainson’s Thrush and Veery to sing at dawn’s first light. It was then that we came out of our tent, shared a Kind Bar, and cleaned up camp.
The morning paddle was so peaceful as it was just after sunrise and the warm light created a surreal glow on the rocks while we paddled through a veil of mist. The reflection of the land on the lake was a perfect mirror image and unfortunately the camera was buried in the pack. What was also really nice was that we appeared to be out before any of the cottagers were. This added even more to the serenity of an early morning.
After retuning to the launch we loaded our gear in the car, strapped down the canoe, and took one last long look at Carlyle Lake. We drove to the town of Killarney for lunch at a local diner.
We have now covered almost all of Killarney Provincial Park after three separate trips. We will say goodbye for awhile as we explore other areas in Ontario, though the beauty of Killarney Provincial Park will be hard to match!
Remember to: Buy a new camping book soon 🙂
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